Some random things from April and how to shoot backlit subjects.

I always have trouble making blog posts when things start to get busier.  So I just wanted to post a few random pictures from this month. I decided to talk mostly about the first picture I highlighted below.  This was a very difficult situation, as soon as I saw where they were having the ceremony I knew it was going to be a problem.  The sun was very bright outside, almost fully up in the sky.  The ceremony was held under a beach shelter right on the edge of the bright sunlight.  If you have ever tried to photograph something like this before, you might know what would happen.  If you let the camera make the decisions, the couple would be almost completely dark because it’s trying to adjust for the bright background light.

I long ago started shooting on manual, so I would expose for the couple and not the background.  This way the camera’s own adjustments would not cause the subject to come out really dark.  However, there is still a problem.  If you just expose the couple properly, the background would then be completely blown out, it would just be a very bright glow behind the couple.  The couple would have kind of a flat, lifeless light on them with an annoyingly glowing background.

So how do you fix this? Well it really comes down to having the proper equipment.  I have these things called Pocket Wizards, they allow me to have a flash on the camera and also another flash off of the camera that is controlled by radio.  You can control another flash through  the built in infrared in the Nikon flashes, but it never works very well.  The Pocket Wizards work the same way, but they are much more reliable especially in sunlight.  Although you can let the flashes decide how much power they need to put out on their own, under this difficult lighting, I thought manual would be better.  I set my on camera flash (that had a tiny Lumiquest softbox on it) and my external flash both to 1/2 power, that seem to be a pretty good compensation for the outside ambient light without overdoing it.  If you notice in this picture, there is a nice light coming from the side of the couple that makes them look more three dimensional.  You can see some shadows from his hand and her arm, these are not from the sun but are from my external flash.

If this sounds too complicated, to make it more simple.  If you are trying to photograph a backlit subject in the shade, use whatever flash you have available, even just the little one on the camera.  Set your camera to manual and keep taking shots until you see the couple is as bright as they need to be.  I hope you enjoy some of the pictures below.

First kiss - Myrtle Beach State Park

First kiss - Myrtle Beach State Park

That's a lot of groomsmen -

That's a lot of groomsmen

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Creating Apple.com style HTML5 box gradients

The title of this post probably just turned off most readers, but if you make your own website you should read on.  Anyone who has followed me for long knows I’m into website design, not the out of date Flash sites, but using modern techniques like HTML5 and CSS3.  You will miss a lot of subtle effects on my website if you are not using a modern browser, of course everything will still work.

I figured if there is a company that knows subtle style it would be Apple, of course after their leather bound iPad calendar app this could be argued.  Their website uses very little color, just some very slight shades of grey, except for their products that really pop off the page.  You might notice my website tries to do the exact same thing with my photography.

I was studying Apple’s website, and like the way boxes that contain information look, for example on their store page.

It might be hard to see in this picture. But the box has a very slight gradient that gets much stronger near the bottom of the box.  There is also a very slight drop shadow on the bottom that makes the box looked slightly raised off the page.  I don’t know how Apple does it, but I thought I could do this with CSS3.  This means the effect can be done without using any images or gradients made in Photoshop.

While you could try to figure out the code for this manually.  The gradient generator from Colorzilla.com http://www.colorzilla.com/gradient-editor/ is fantastic.  It can create gradients similar to Photoshop that have color stops that work in most web browsers, even older IE versions. What the color stop lets you do, is instead of having a gradient that changes shade evenly from top to bottom, you can do, like Apple does, and have it change very little until the bottom portion of the box where it increases.  Here is the exact code I use to get a very similar gradient as well as drop shadow on my boxes like on the Apple Store website, even a slight roundness to the corners. To put a box like this anywhere on your page just use something like . . .

<div class="myBoxes">Whatever I want inside</div>

Then in your css file . . .

.myBoxes {
padding: 10px;
background: rgb(255,255,255);
/* Old browsers */ /* IE9 SVG, needs conditional override of 'filter' to 'none' */background: url(data:image/svg+xml;base64,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);
	background: -moz-linear-gradient(top, rgba(255,255,255,1) 0%, rgba(253,253,253,1) 75%, rgba(247,247,247,1) 100%); /* FF3.6+ */;
	background: -webkit-gradient(linear, left top, left bottom, color-stop(0%,rgba(255,255,255,1)), color-stop(75%,rgba(253,253,253,1)), color-stop(100%,rgba(247,247,247,1))); /* Chrome,Safari4+ */;
	background: -webkit-linear-gradient(top, rgba(255,255,255,1) 0%,rgba(253,253,253,1) 75%,rgba(247,247,247,1) 100%); /* Chrome10+,Safari5.1+ */;
	background: -o-linear-gradient(top, rgba(255,255,255,1) 0%,rgba(253,253,253,1) 75%,rgba(247,247,247,1) 100%); /* Opera 11.10+ */;
	background: -ms-linear-gradient(top, rgba(255,255,255,1) 0%,rgba(253,253,253,1) 75%,rgba(247,247,247,1) 100%); /* IE10+ */;
	background: linear-gradient(top, rgba(255,255,255,1) 0%,rgba(253,253,253,1) 75%,rgba(247,247,247,1) 100%); /* W3C */;
	filter: progid:DXImageTransform.Microsoft.gradient( startColorstr='#ffffff', endColorstr='#f7f7f7',GradientType=0 ); /* IE6-8 */;
	-webkit-box-shadow: 0px 1px 0px rgba(50, 50, 50, 0.5);
	-moz-box-shadow: 0px 1px 0px rgba(50, 50, 50, 0.5);
	box-shadow: 0px 1px 0px rgba(50, 50, 50, 0.5);
border: 1px #CDCDCD solid;
border-radius: 5px;
}

This may look complicated, but play around with the gradient generator and you can make your own easily.  Or if you want to try my code, just paste this into your CSS for any <div>. There is a small hack you have to do to get it working properly in IE9, but it explains how to do it on Colorzilla’s site.  I hope any web developers find this helpful, if you do or if you need more explanation let me know in the comments below.

Backup strategies for a professional photographer ver. 2

A while back a wrote a post about my backup strategy, but I’ve changed my workflow significantly since then so I thought I needed to make an updated post.  This should be helpful to anyone trying to figure out how to keep the precious images, we as professional photographers take, safe from accidental loss or deletion.  Backup is one of the most important things a photographer needs to do.

First of all, I forget who said it, but if you don’t have a digital image in at least 3 places you don’t really have it.  You should have 3 copies of any picture you take, you also should have an offsite copy just incase your home or office is broken into or fire or something else destroys your hard drives.  This might seem like overkill, but trust me, things happen.  I once had to get some data from what I call my last resort offsite backup because of a stupid mistake on my computer.  It’s scary, I’m really glad I was making good backups.

My Workflow:

First of all, as soon as I get home from a shoot, I begin importing images into my Lightroom catalog and to the folder it creates on my hard drive.  I don’t have time in this post to go into my Lightroom workflow, but the images get placed into an organized by date folder on my drive.  Then I put the CF memory card to the side and I don’t delete it until all my backups have been made, typically by the next morning.

First Backup:

Data Robotics Drobo 4-Bay USB 2.0/FireWire 800 SATA Storage Array DR04DD10The important key to backing up is that it has to be automatic.  You will forget if you have to do it manually.  I use software called Sync Toy on my PC.   You can see how to automate the software here.  Automatically each night, Sync Toy copies any new or changed images from my working hard drives inside my PC over to my Drobo.  This way I have my original working copy on my fast internal raid 0 array, plus an extra copy on my Drobo.  The Drobo is much slower but provides the additional protection that a drive can fail and be replaced without any loss of data.  I can’t go into what a Drobo is here, but you can check out their website.

Offsite Backup:

So now we have 2, and essentially 3 copies of the pictures because the Drobo provides protection from a hard drive failure itself.  What about the offsite backup? In the past I would just occasionally put a copy of all my images on an external hard drive and store it somewhere offsite, but this is a pain and it doesn’t get updated frequently enough.

Why Carbonite doesn’t work:

I’ve tried various services like Carbonite that promise unlimited offsite backup.  This doesn’t work for a pro photographer!  Here is why.  I have a new Docsis 3.0 internet connection with 5mbps up, so technically I have plenty of bandwidth to upload as many files as I need quickly.  The problem is, at first Carbonite works very fast.  However, after around 50gb of storage, they start to slow down your uploads so much that it becomes very difficult to keep up with incoming images even if backing up constantly day and night.  After 200gb they slow you down to 100kbps, so you are pretty much done at that point.  So even though they claim unlimited backup, they slow you down so much that it’s not practical.  I always wondered how they got unlimited storage for $60 a year, now I know.

Amazon S3 to the rescue:

I signed up for the Amazon S3 service.  This gives you storage space on Amazon’s servers that you can use as much and as fast as you want, they just charge you per GB of storage.  If you use their reduced redundancy storage option, which is still 99.9% reliable, plenty for a 3rd offsite backup, it cost about $10 per 100GB per month.  This might seem like something very complicated, but if you get software called Cloudberry Backup for about $30 it steps you through the process and automates the backups.  With the Cloudberry software, every night any new pictures I’ve imported, are automatically uploaded and backed up to the Amazon S3 service.  S3 is so fast that I can backup a whole wedding’s worth of raw images overnight.  What I’m going to do so the cost doesn’t get too high, I’m still going to keep my offsite physical hard drive backup and update it every few months.  My latest 500GB or so of pictures I’ll keep backed up on Amazon S3 which will cost around $50 per month.

Now if you really want to get fanatical, like I am, you can also get a fireproof safe and keep a 4th backup copy in there as well.  Hard drives are so cheap now it doesn’t hurt.  So to sum it up, Microsoft Sync Toy automatically copies any new pictures to my Drobo.  The Cloudberry Backup automatically uploads all new images to Amazon S3 overnight.  You would really have to try hard to find a way to lose images using this system.  I hope this helps!   Let me know if it does or if you have any suggestions below.

Really cool black and white images

A lot of people don’t have a clear understanding of how black and white images are done with modern digital cameras.  It’s not like with film where you choose to use either b&w or color film.  Even if your digital camera has a black and white setting, all it’s doing is taking a color picture inside the camera and then converting it to black and white.  With the nicer cameras you take your pictures in a raw color format and then adjust and do what you want with an image later on in software.  There is really no such thing as taking a black and white image anymore, so any picture you see that I have in black and white, there is always a color original to choose from.

Now if you just let the camera do the black and white conversion, or if you just use basic software that removes the color, you can end up with a pretty flat and boring image.  Doing a good black and white is a lot more than just removing the color.  I think a big difference between a good and bad photographer is the investment you make in really good equipment and software.

I’ve always used actions in Photoshop that would allow for soft and glowing, sharp and high contrast, and other types of b&w image conversions.  Recently I just starting using new software called Nik’s  Silver Efex Pro 2.  This really takes the black and white conversions to a whole new level. I’m just getting started using this software, but I’m already getting results I love.   As I work with it I’m sure I will get better, keep an eye out here and on my Facebook page for more variety in black and white styles.  I will post a few of these black and white images below, I hope you enjoy them.

Groomsmen in black and white - Kingston Plantation - North Myrtle Beach

Groomsmen in black and white - Kingston Plantation - North Myrtle Beach

Entering the reception - Grande Dunes - Ocean Club

Entering the reception - Grande Dunes - Ocean Club

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